Wednesday, July 06, 2005

We who are ready to die, salute you: Our forray into Ancient Rome

Despite the morbid title of the post, don't get your hopes up (TARYN). Things are still going swimmingly here in Italia, Rome specifically, and are as far from pear-shaped as possible.

Our last day in Rome was far more leisurely than any of the other days. We actually slept in this morning (until the mature hour of 7:30 am!) and spent some time just chilling at the hostel, and taking some time to relax. After the queue-horrors of yesterday, we decided that there was really no point in us racing into the heart of the city with the throngs of people and the heat only to have to wait on our feet. No, better to have a day of little indulgences, and spend some time having a cappucino and reading email.

Soon enough we were out on the pavement, and then fighting our way onto the Metro. FYI, Line B is far less classier than Line A, but neither line has air conditioning. My book had made this poor joke about getting smashed flatter then fettucini if you ride the Metro while the Romans are on their way to work, but we assumed that at 9 in the morning they would already be there. We were wrong. We don't actually know when the working day begins or ends here, but it seems that if you can get someone in Rome to work for 3 hours consecutively, that's impressive. The subway was so packed that I actually had to cling desperately (while on the tips of my toes) to the rail that hangs across the ceiling as opposed to the pole. The crazy driving here extends to the subway as well, so I knew that if I didn't hold onto something (or someone! As some people chose) that momentum would have me hurtling from one end of the train to the other... regardless of the number of people I barreled into in the process!

We got off at Circus Maximus, and then proceeded to make our first navigational error in about 5 or 6 days. Thankfully, a kind Roman told us where we should go, and we soon found... a large field with a vague circular pattern in it. Ah well. We caught it on the first pass, rather than walking by it 5 times asking where the heck it was!

We then braved the terrifying Roman traffic and made our way to the river side of the street and strolled along the Tiber river. Apparently the key to transversing the streets here is to just have no fear... or to have a death wish. You're just supposed to step out into traffic, without turning to look at the cars. If they see you look, they know you're a tourist. The only way they slow down is if you're in front of them. You've got to have guts to cross the road here. Chickens need not apply! (Note: Laura has not had any traffic altercations whatsoever. I am so proud of her!) Our other tip is to walk with other tourists, preferably using them as a shield (read: keeping them between you and the oncoming traffic). Our theory is that if the cars don't stop, then the other people will get hit AND that the collision may stop the cars or at least slow them enough so that we can get across. Brilliant!

We spent some time wandering around the Jewish district (per another not-so-great suggestion by someone we can all guess without naming, but her name rhymes with "Karen"). Maybe it was just dead because it was 10:30 in the morning, or maybe it was just a poor idea. You be the judge. Either way, we had things to do and other places to see, so we said goodbye to that and began our trek into the past.

We began in the Roman forums, wandering through the ruins that we had seen about 3 times from behind gates as we had strove to avoid ruining the adventure. I am happy to report that seeing them from the sidelines did not compare AT ALL to the actual experience of walking through them, and I regaled Laura with tales of 10th grade Latin class and the little family we read about. Puellae in foro ambulabant (translation: The girls were walking in the forum). As we walked through the forum, we made our way to the base of Palatine Hill and purchased our joint ticket to that and the Coliseum. We strolled up the hill, enjoying the sights of orange trees and other ruined buildings. Laura was particularly enamoured with the speedy little lizards that darted out from rocks, although I was the one lamenting our lack of a net to catch them. Really though, it was far too hot to chase anything. We are clearly gatherers, not hunters.

When it came to be about 2 pm, we decided we should perhaps get something to eat before venturing into the Coliseum. After all, if you're off to fight lions and the like, you need to have a full stomach! We went to another of the restaurants recommended by The Beehive (finding yet another one they suggested to be abandonned and out of business), and had an actual meal! We had a roasted vegetable appetizer (oh vegetables proper, how we have missed you!), and then had the largest plates of pasta (fresh and homemade) we have ever seen. Despite all my reminders to Laura of when the last decent meal was and when the next one might be, she could not finish it all (but came very close). I guess she was rightly saving room for gelato.

After our very enjoyable lunch, we finally made it to the Coliseum. We already had tickets, so we got to bypass the long line and go straight in. I don't think I am exaggerating when I say that it is possibly the coolest and most amazing building I have ever seen. Take that Eiffel Tower? Were you built a bajillion years ago? I don't think so! Did people get mauled by large animals for sport and the amusement of bloodthirsty crowds in your enclosure? I don't think so! The Coliseum was all kinds of awesome. The true testament to this is approximately the 50 combined photos that Laura and I now have of it (which has incidently, passed the number of photos I have of random puppies and that Swedish marching band).

Our visit to Ancient Rome was incredibly rewarding, but it was also quite a long, hot day. No day in Rome is complete without gelato and a siesta (in that order), so we returned to the gelateria we discovered yesterday. Today's choices: Fig & Pine Nut (Laura), and Chestnut & Blueberry (me). Mmmmm.... gelato. Then it was off for a nap, and then a chat with Nick, a fellow Canadian in the dorm.

It's an early start for us tomorrow as we head of to Naples, and then straight to Vesuvius. The next two days will be a continuation of Historical Italy, and of course, Adventure! We both have packing to do, and I am going to try a hand at washing clothing in the sink, so that'll be it for now. Ciao!

2 Comments:

At July 07, 2005 1:18 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Ahh... it seems like the two of you are getting a good taste of the Italian efficiency (yes, this is indeed an oxymoron). Now what if I told you that Rome (and perhaps Florence and Milan) is/are considered more hectic and stressful than most Italian communities? It's amazing that the country continues to function at all... but I still love it. Yes, I am very jealous at the moment.

Hey... did you manage to make it to the Trevi at night like you were hoping to do? And I may have missed it, but did the Spanish Steps feature anywhere in your lil Roman Holiday?

 
At July 08, 2005 6:43 pm, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I just got the postcard you sent from the Bavarian Alps. Beautiful!

Even if the weather didn't cooperate, there still must have been some great sights.

Simona

 

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